I actually think it looks surprisingly well balance. I thought it would have much more of rat-bull effect.![]()
Hey, it's possible - it is a 400mm f/2.8 at the long end!
Unfortunately the sun's going down here, and this is just about impossible to use indoors, but I think I may have gotten a couple shots.
Dude that is so damn cool. Put those 10 dollar flashes on each side and you would have a crazy looking setup.![]()
Originally Posted by jacobsen1
So ultimately, are they gonna make adapters for every major brand of lens? Pentax K, Nikon, Canon, etc? I know they already make an M42 adapter, but was just wondering...This could make me buy one if I could stick a K mount lens on it, and have AF, and apeture control work.
-Andy
Well, you won't have AF. But yeah, you can get an adapter for virtually any lens out there right now, including K mount. I don't know of any that have problems with infinity focus, since there's really no reason for it beyond poor construction. MFT's register is so short you'd really have to **** up royally to not end up with the same focusing range as the original format.
Cool....Now I have another thing I want...on top of 300 F/4, or a 150-400~ zoom. Dammit. I suppose though that a 16-50 wouldn't be that wide on this. I would have to get a 10-20, and even then the 10 becomes 20. But as you demonstrated, this could be really cool with a long tele or zoom for bird or wildlife photography...that is wildlife that doens't move too much. Is there any shutter lag on these things, like a compact? Could be cool considering there is no mirror slap to scare any wildlife off.
The shutter lag is no where near a P&S, but it depends on what you're doing. Full autofocus, then shoot is about 400 milliseconds, pre-focusing then shooting is about 75 milliseconds (better than many dSLRs), and shooting in manual mode for some reason is a bit slower - about 100 milliseconds. Bottom line, it doesn't feel like shooting with a P&S, it shoots much more like an entry-level dSLR, if not better - it's snappier than a 5D, for instance.
Andy, they make a 7-14 for us.
and Sam, nice rear lenscap...But seriously, the long range aspects of M43 are incredible. I need to just embrace that. I also need to decide between the olympus adapter or the nikon as I don't really want to have both. Sam, does it really control the aperture? How the hell does that work?
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Nikon's aperture control is through a tab on the back, so it's actually pretty easy. I can't say I'm really jazzed about the control though - I think it's only a matter of time before someone makes a nicer one. It has two stops - full open (On) and full closed (Off) - with a continuous range between. The problem is that the distance between "On" and "Off" is so small that its hard to dial in a precise aperture, and easy to bump out of place. I think I'll probably shoot wide open most of the time, so I'm not really worried - but it would be nice to have something a bit more refined. Again, it's just a matter of time. On the other hand, I know some guys that like this adapter for video because they can change the aperture while recording without there being any visible "steps".
Here's some shots with the 50mm f/1.4, wide open:
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Ah...found it.
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0903/09...onic7-14mm.asp
Ben - FWIW, I think you just need to figure out what you want to use the manual glass for. If I wanted to use my MF glass day-to-day, I probably would just stick with M Mount since it's so (relatively) compact. The only reason I went with the F Mount adapter is because I want to start using the GF1 for my nude stuff, where I'm often fighting shallow DoF with the D700.
Had a question asked on DPR (by someone whose also on here, btw) so I figured I'd address it here as well: Yes, this adapter will work with non-G lenses. In fact, it seems like this adapter was really /made/ for non-G lenses, but just happens to also work with G lenses due to how their aperture tab works. The implementation is a bit nicer for non-G lenses since in the "Off" position it will use whatever aperture you have set, in the "On" position it goes wide-open. So, if you have an aperture you want to use for the exposure, but want the maximum aperture for composing, etc. you have an easy way to get back to your exposure aperture without a lot of fuss.
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I'm not sure I'd say it works "well", for G series lenses. As I said in post #20, the distance between "Off" and "On" is pretty short and of course there's no aperture indication, so while you can change the aperture, it's awkward and error prone. Now that I've tried it on non-G lenses, it makes more sense. It looks more like the Off/On thing is really for going from wide-open to your exposure aperture. dSLR users kind of take it for granted that when you're composing a photo with your camera set to f/16, you not seeing the photo at f/16. Most of the time this is a good thing since you can see more easily, it's easier to dial in an accurate focus point, etc. On MFT there's no mirror, so everything's dependent on what the sensor can provide you - if you're stopped down to f/16, the camera is going to have to gain up and if you're not in great light conditions the screen is likely to get laggy and grainy. So, for MFT it's nice to be able to "flip" between apertures so that you can have a bright image until you're ready to shoot.
I see you found it, but look at the size (or lack there of) of the thing:
sounds kinda like the nikon -> EOS adapter... I'm not sure on the distance between the two ends with it, but it slides like you're saying.
exactly, I have M mount and it's tiny and good/great glass for the money. It seems to fit better with the GF1. The only issue is I only have one lens (the 50mm) but I'm not sure what I'd use anyway. We all know I'm a wide whore which means I should just save for the 14mm pancake and possibly 7-14 (yes it's already luring me in)...
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Amazing. This and a 70-300 VR would be sweet for a cheap 600mm. Then again, if Nikon comes out with their EVIL and AF becomes compatible, their rumored 2.5x would give you 500mm/2.8 and AF with your above lens. I'm starting to drool at the idea.
In looking up some info, I just found this list that might be of interest:
http://www.lensrentals.com/rent/micr...-3/for-olympus
There are a lot of discussions online about which standard 4/3 lenses will autofocus with the adapter on so Tim did some quick tests and found the following:
Reasonably quick and accurate autofocus:
Olympus 25mm f2.8
Panasonic-Leica 25mm f1.4
Olympus 9-18 f4-5.6
Autofocuses, although a bit slowly and needs decent light / contrast
Olympus 8mm fisheye
Olympus 35mm f3.5 Macro
Olympus 50mm f2 Macro
Sigma 105mm f2.8 Macro
Olympus 150mm f2
Olympus 300mm f2.8
Olympus 7-14 f4
Sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6
Olympus 11-22mm f2.8-3.5
Olympus 12-60mm f2.8-4
Olympus 14-54mm f2.8-3.5
Sigma 18-50mm f2.8
Olympus 18-180mm f3.5-6.3
Olympus 35-100mm f2
Olympus 50-200mm f2.8-3.5 SWD
Olympus 70-300mm f4-5.6
Olympus 90-250mm f2.8
Sigma 50-500mm f4-6.3 - OK, seriously, 100-1000mm equiv.?! That is awesome.
These f stop numbers are pretty vague, considering the image circle being captured... are you actually getting equivalent exposures in low light?
The reason I ask is because of the image circle from the Nikon lens being significantly larger than the sensor area on the MFT. With some of the lens systems we play with and small sensors there are occasionally problems with bounce inside. It's usually fixed with a fixed aperture disc halfway between the rearmost element and the sensor, but that probably isn't an option in your case.
Hmm. Not really sure man. I'll try to keep aware of it and let you know if I see anything.
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